Beginner's guide
How to read the mahjong card
The card looks like a page of secret code the first time you see it. Once you know what the colours, letters and numbers mean, it reads like a menu.
What the card is
In American mahjong, you can only win with a hand that's printed on the card. The card is published by the National Mah Jongg League, and a new one comes out every spring. The hands change each year, so last year's card won't match what your group is playing now.
Every player at the table needs their own copy. It sits beside your rack the whole game, and you'll look at it constantly, especially as a beginner. That's normal. Experienced players still check it.
Buy the real card
This page explains how the card is laid out in general. It doesn't show any of the actual hands. To play, buy this year's card directly from the National Mah Jongg League. It's inexpensive, and it's the only way to know which hands are allowed.
The sections
The card is divided into sections, sometimes called families or categories. Each section groups hands that share an idea. The exact sections can shift a little from year to year, but you'll usually see headings along these lines:
- The year. Hands built around the digits of the current year. The White Dragon (Soap) stands in for zero.
- Even numbers (2, 4, 6, 8) and odd numbers (1, 3, 5, 7, 9).
- Like numbers. The same number in different suits.
- Addition hands. Hands where the numbers add up, such as two tiles that "make" a third.
- Quints. Hands with groups of five, which always need jokers (or flowers).
- Consecutive runs. Numbers in a row, like 3, 4, 5.
- Multiples of three (3, 6, 9).
- Winds and Dragons. Hands made mostly or entirely of honour tiles.
- Singles and Pairs. Hands made only of pairs and single tiles. Jokers can't be used in these at all.
Knowing the sections is the quickest way to find your way around. When you look at your tiles, you'll start thinking "I have a lot of odd numbers" or "I'm heavy in winds," and you'll go straight to that part of the card.
Reading one line
Each line on the card is one hand. A hand is always 14 tiles. The line shows those tiles as groups of numbers and letters, with spaces between the groups.
A few things to know about how tiles are written:
- Numbers mean number tiles. "333" is three of the same number, a pung. "4444" is a kong. Five in a row of the same digit is a quint.
- F means Flower. "FF" is a pair of flowers.
- D means a Dragon. Which dragon depends on the colour it's printed in (more on that below).
- N, E, W, S are the four Winds.
- 0 is the White Dragon, Soap, used as zero in year hands.
Below or beside some lines, in small type, you'll find a short note in parentheses. These notes tell you things the tiles alone can't, like "any one suit," "any three suits," or "these numbers only." Read them. They're easy to miss and they change how the hand can be made.
The spaces between groups matter too. Each cluster is its own group. When you think about jokers, look at the size of each cluster: jokers can go in any group of three or more, but never in a single or a pair. The joker quiz drills exactly this.
What the colours mean
Hands are printed in up to three colours. The colours don't stand for a particular suit. They tell you how many different suits the hand uses and which groups must match.
- If a hand is printed all in one colour, every numbered tile in it comes from the same suit. You pick which suit.
- If it's in two colours, you need two different suits. All groups in the first colour share one suit, and all groups in the second colour share another.
- If it's in three colours, you need all three suits: Bams, Craks and Dots.
Dragons follow the colour rule as well. Each dragon belongs with a suit: Red with Craks, Green with Bams, and Soap with Dots. If a "D" group is printed in the same colour as some number groups, it must be the dragon that matches those numbers' suit. If it's printed in a different colour, it must be the dragon of a different suit. The tile guide shows the pairings.
Each suit and its dragon: Craks with Red, Bams with Green, Dots with Soap.
Flowers and Winds have no suit, so their colour doesn't change anything.
X, C and the point value
At the end of each line, you'll see a letter and a number.
- X means the hand can be exposed. You're allowed to call discards to complete groups and lay them face up on your rack.
- C means the hand is concealed. You can't call any discards for it except the very last tile that gives you mahjong. Everything else has to come from the wall or the Charleston.
- The number is the hand's value. Harder hands are worth more, and concealed hands are usually worth more than exposed ones. The value decides what everyone pays you. See scoring and payouts for how it works.
As a beginner, exposed hands are friendlier. You get more chances to pick up tiles you need, and you can see your progress on the rack.
How to scan the card for a hand
You'll be doing this right after the deal and all through the Charleston. Here's a simple routine.
- Sort your tiles. Group them by suit, then honours (winds, dragons), then flowers and jokers. It's much easier to compare a tidy rack to the card.
- Count what stands out. Do you have lots of one suit? Several pairs? Many even numbers? Plenty of flowers? Let that point you to a section.
- Look for pairs and groups. Tiles you already have two or three of are your best foundation. A pair of 6 Craks might fit several hands; a lone 6 Crak fits many but helps less.
- Pick two hands, not one. Choose two possible hands that use many of the same tiles. Keep both open through the Charleston. Our Charleston strategy guide explains why this works.
- Check the details. Before you commit, re-read the line, including the colours, the note in parentheses, and whether it's X or C.
- Narrow down as you go. Once the Charleston is over and play begins, settle on one hand. Keep a second in mind if the tiles you need start appearing in the discards.
The Daily Charleston is a good place to practise this. You get a fresh 13 tiles every day and can try matching them to sections without the pressure of a real table.
A few tips for new players
- Mark it up. Lots of players lightly highlight hands they like, or note which ones they've won with. It's your card.
- Learn a few sections well. You don't need the whole card memorised. Knowing two or three sections well will carry you through your first months.
- Don't stare too long. Glance, decide, play. Other players are waiting. With practice you'll find your hand faster.
- Keep the rules handy. Our cheat sheet sits nicely beside the card for joker and calling rules.
Questions
Can I use last year's card?
Only for practice on your own. At the table, everyone plays from the current card. Once the new card is out, groups switch over, and hands from old cards no longer count.
Do the colours mean specific suits, like green for Bams?
No. Colours just show which groups must share a suit and which must be different. You choose the actual suits, as long as you follow the pattern.
Where can I get the card?
From the National Mah Jongg League, which publishes it each year. Buying from the League supports the people who write the hands, and you'll get the correct current edition.
What if I'm not sure a hand is allowed?
Ask the table before you call mahjong. It's much better to check than to expose your tiles for a hand that doesn't quite match. If it's wrong, your hand could be ruled dead. See mahjong etiquette for how most groups handle questions mid-game.
Is there a large-print version?
Yes. The League sells a large-print card alongside the standard size, for a little more. Many players find it easier to read. Choose it when you order.
This page describes the card's general layout only. It doesn't reproduce any hands. For the full list of words used on the card and at the table, see the mahjong glossary.